Published: Expat Newspaper, July 2007
Monasterio de Tarlac
Long before the Americans of the Commonwealth period dubbed Baguio as the Summer Capital of the Philippines, the Spaniards of old discovered and fell in love with the serene beauty of Tarlac’s vast plains and its hidden valleys. The place remains a seat of the most prevalent Spanish influence: Catholicism.
Tarlac is fervently Catholic, its old churches unforgotten, and new ones sprouting every so often. Tarlac City, the midpoint between Baguio and Manila, is a bustling metropolis dotted with coffee shops and restaurants. Far from being a mere pit stop for weary travelers on their way to the more popular tourist destinations further up north, the province is steeped with a rich history and new attractions of the spiritual kind. Early this year, the Department of Tourism named the quiet baranggay of Lubigan as the most revered pilgrimage site in the country. It’s high time to rediscover Tarlac’s charms through the eyes but of a pilgrim.
This story began in ernest when one Fr. Archie Cortez, prior of the monastic community Servants of the Risen Christ, participated the World Youth Day in Cologne, Germany. He met Monsignor Volker Bauer, rector of a diocese in Essen, Germany, the sanctuary of the relic of the True Cross, believed by the faithfuls to be the very cross used in the crucifixion of Jesus Christ. The Essen relic is one among the few relics of the True Cross kept in churches all around Europe. With the continent becoming increasingly secularized, one finds Catholic churches, once regarded as hallowed ground, being converted to museums and restaurants. So was the case in Essen. Msgr. Bauer who was on the look out for a community to take-over the guardianship of the relic, chose Fr. Archie Cortez and the Servants of the Risen Christ because of their devotion to the Holy Cross.
In record time, what was to be the new home of the relic, the Monasterio de Tarlac, was erected, the first and the only one of its kind in Asia.
Ave Crux, Spes Unica
A group of faithfuls headed by Ding Mercado and Chili Pefianco of Asiantraveller organizes a pilgrimage to Tarlac’s churches with the Monasterio de Tarlac as its focal point. I was privileged enough to join them for my first ever pilgrimage, and believe it or not, my first real trip to Tarlac that was more than just a stop-over.
After breakfast, we headed to San Sebastian Cathedral in Tarlac City for a quick prayer, and to pick up our official tour guide, Fr. Alex Bautista. Fr. Bautista, a professor of Liturgical Art in the University of Santo Tomas, designed the interiors of most of the churches we were set to visit. His firsthand knowledge of these churches, expertise in religious iconography and interesting anecdotes kept the pilgrims absorbed throughout our journey.
A sudden turn on the road took us from the sprawling ricefields, to a lush, mountainous valley that marks the boundary of Tarlac and Zambales. These very hills shielded this area of Tarlac and kept it mostly unscathed during the 1991 volcanic eruption of Mt. Pinatubo in Zambales. A smooth and winding road up a mountain led to the hilltop sanctuary that is Monasterio de Tarlac. It lies within a gorgeous plot of land donated by the local government. The imposing facade of the main chapel stood gleaming at the center of the compound, surrounded by a sprawling piazza.
The chapel proper can seat approximately 50 people. It is heavily embellished with baroque style trimmings, giving the small structure a grand feel. Viewing decks designed like minature medieval castles were built on the slope. A well-manicured garden strewn with white, life-like statues also encircle the compound. The most majestic of them all, a 30-foot statue of the Risen Christ reminiscent of Brazil’s Christ the Redeemer stands at the edge of a hill, arms outstretched.
We celebrated the Eucharist in the chapel and afterward, queued up to have a moment alone in the altar for a silent prayer and to touch the ark that houses the relic. The words “Ave Crux, Spes Unica,” or Hail the Holy Cross, Our Only Hope is engraved above. The ark is only opened during the feast of the Triumph of the Holy Cross which is on September 14.
Heavenly Sanctuaries
The next stop was the Expiatory Chapel dedicated to Our Lady of Buknol-Buknol (knots) in Gerona. Adorned with replicas of famous religious paintings, the chapel is fairly new and was built in response to the political unrest the country faced early in the decade. A church dedicated to Saint Isidor in Pura was next. St. Isidor is the patron saint of farmers, an apt devotion for the town. The structure itself is large; however the renovations of the interior, saved for the altar which was completed with the help of Fr. Bautista, are still ongoing. Next on the itinerary was the Shrine of Our Lady of Peace in La Paz. The statue of the Sacred Heart of Mary that rests in the altar is said to be miraculous. The parish priest of the shrine was kind enough to bless the pilgrims with a short prayer and with an anointing with oil before we continued on. Last on the list was the Church of the Immaculate Conception. The altar was magnificent and gold-trimmed and the walls, meticulously hand painted by local artisans. An ornate dome above the altar topped off the majestic design.
A bit tired but still in high-spirits, we shared light snacks on board the coaster that will take us back to Manila after a full day of tours. The experience is not solely for the faithful. Those who find their spirituality to be waning may just find their much-needed burst of faith in these sanctuaries. As for those who raise a sceptical brow, the beauty of the place, with its charming churches and exquisite religious art, still makes it worth the visit.
How To Get There and Other Helpful Hints
The Monasterio de Tarlac is located in the Tarlac Ecotourism Park, Lubigan, San Jose. From Manila, take the North Luzon Expressway to Tarlac City. In the barangay of San Sebastian, turn left to the town of Camiling. A 30-minute drive will lead to the barangay of Lubigan. The roads leading to the monastery are well-developed, a development project care of generous patrons and devotees of the Holy Cross in cooperation with the local government. The sanctuary of the relic of the true Holy Cross is only open to the public on weekends. Weekday visitors will only be entertained if part of the pilgrimage arranged by this group. Pilgrimages will resume after the rainy season. Contact Ding Mercado (0917-7908138 ) and Chili Pefianco (0920-9187358 )for more details. While in Tarlac, don’t forget to sample the local delicacies, like tapang-kalabaw (soy-marinated carabao meat), pastillas, torones de casuy and buro. The native handicrafts are also a worthwhile find. Ceramic wares and sculptures made of volcanic ash showcase the locals’ ingenuity and artistic flair.
*Photos were lifted –with permission– from http://www.amazingmusings.com