In the dynamic and often cutthroat food industry a good reputation built solely by word of mouth is worth more than any number of “stars” or “thumbs-ups” bestowed by even the best restaurant guides, and infinitely more credible than the cleverest marketing stratagem. A satisfied customer’s commendation is in itself an advertisement, one in its purest.
Ask any authentic foodie out there and chances are, they have heard of In-Yo Fusion Cuisine. Like a secret too good to keep, In-Yo’s name spread like wildfire and got passed on from one gourmand’s lips to another. Naturally, when I dropped in for a visit my expectations far exceeded my appetite.
Nestled in the quieter, part-residential and part-commercial backstreet of Katipunan Avenue in Quezon City, In-Yo is a house-turned-restaurant borne out of its young chef’s many talents. As the lone fine-dinning establishment in a neighborhood swarming with fast-food joints, it outshines all others and beckons to those looking to pamper their palates with Chef Niño Laus’ one of-a-kind dishes.
The tall gate that shields it from its nondescript setting reveals nothing of the charm it hides inside. The restaurant, a quaint, two-storey structure built in one portion of Laus’ sprawling family home evokes an old-world elegance, showcasing the best of Asian architecture; a Japanese Zen garden with a flowing fountain, a pond with a wooden bridge that leads to a grand door and intricate Asian fixtures. Impressive, for sure but they saved the best part for last. Get a better view of the pond and the fishes through the glass floor inside!
Although the name In-Yo is Japanese for Yin and Yang, their menu, all original recipes, draws from different influences. The menu goes through revamps from time to time as Laus adds more of his innovative creations. “Its all about the plating,” he says of his intricately styled dishes that are almost too pretty to eat.
On second thought, nothing is too pretty to eat.
To lend a helping hand to the indecisive, In-Yo has a ready degustation menu, a thoroughly selected sequence of dishes for a perfect full course meal. Sit back and let the expert pick what appetizer goes with what entrée, for maximum enjoyment.
One of the latest additions in the salad section of the menu and a sure success is the mesquite smoked salmon gravlax with mixed greens in yuzu dressing. Eating your greens would not be such an unpleasant task when it’s prepared this delectably.
The trilogy of foie gras gets my personal seal of approval. Pan seared with caramelized onions, poached with truffled potato and torchon with cranberry jelly, its hard to pick just one favorite. It comes with mixed greens and seasonal fruits in honey ponzu dressing on the side.
A must-try for an entrée is the mesquite smoked fillet of local halibut with saffron mussel emulsion infused with vanilla bean. It comes perfectly paired agli-olio pasta topped with watercress relish. For the meat-lovers the US hanging tenderloin steak is mandatory. The tender meat is topped with red wine sauce and served with buttered seasonal vegetables in spicy yuzu.
Lastly, the Mango Pavlova certainly takes the cake. A merengue dessert, crispy on the outside but light and fluffy on the inside is topped with vanilla ice cream and fresh mangoes for a perfect finish.
To add to his unquestionable skill in the kitchen, Laus shows off his flair for landscaping in the restaurant’s alfresco area, which he designed himself. For awhile there I thought I had wandered into someone’s romantic fantasy; a crystalline pond, fairy lights, hanging vines, haute cuisine, mood music and valet parking!
The restaurant boasts of a lot of return diners, some of whom take time to travel from as far as Makati. On my visit during a standard Tuesday night, the place was filled to capacity mostly with couples, young and old. It makes perfect sense since In-Yo’s strength aside from its food is its romantic and cozy ambiance, a perfect backdrop for falling in love. Expect to get swept off your feet and drawn into the most delicious of love affairs.
(as published, Expat News)
contact:
k.cabanos@gmail.com
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